Mergui Temple

Picture a turquoise sea studded with more than 800 rocky isles, and you have one of the most scenic and charming island groups in the whole of South East Asia-the Mergui Archipelago. Although they have a footprint of 25,380 square kilometres, only a handful are actually large enough to be inhabited; a frontier that begs exploration and that's just what is happening with countless visitors returning again and again.

Apart from rocky outcrops and islets that barely break the water's surface, most are blanketed by lush primary rainforests, fringed by mangrove swamps, which are occasionally broken by powdery beaches. There are also cave-pitted, sheer limestone cliffs that tower, in places beyond several hundred metres. The islands with beaches hospitable enough to receive boats are often gateways to otherwise inaccessible but stunning inland lakes and waterways. Numerous fringing reefs provide temptations for swimmers and snorkellers alike, but can be unforgiving to boat hulls! But not to worry, picturesque coves and sheltered bays abound, with enough anchorages for all.

Creatures Aplenty

Encounters with all manner of creatures are no less than day to day events, particularly when near the largest landmass in the archipelago, Lampi Island, a now protected Marine National Park. Brahminy kites and white-bellied sea eagles circle the skies and small green parakeets flit from bough to bough in the jungle canopy, where they are accompanied by wreathed, pied and great hornbills who attempt to remain inconspicuous. The trees also play host to pythons and mangrove snakes and are liberally punctuated with tree ferns and wild orchids.

Back on terra firma ferret badgers take turns with otters, ground squirrels and crab-eating macaques in staking out their territory on the many white beaches and rocks, as they go in search of food. When night falls, fruit bats take to the skies and civets and fishing cats scour the beaches.

Lampi Island National Park

Diving Mergui

Scuba diving around the archipelago is currently limited to liveaboard excursions. The actual distances to the islands and between dive sites are too great to be crossed on a daily basis. All the charters for diving and exploratory island cruises currently come from Thai-based companies.
One of the main attractions here is diving with big fish: sharks, rays and a wealth of pelagics. You have to experience the excitement at the open ocean sites to believe the thrills it offers. Little Torres and Black Rock, for instance, attract a good variety of sharks as well as rays particularly mantas and eagles. In contrast there is also an outstanding selection of sites rich with minute and rarely seen reef creatures.

The Sites

Western Rocky: This site is generally dived either to or from the Burma Banks. The underwater terrain consists of pinnacles both outcropping and submerged. The largest outcropping has a cave cutting right through it, this branches off to a very narrow and low exit, which should not be taken. It is easy to realise which one it is as there are two large nurse sharks residing in it.
Also in the tunnel are numerous crayfish and invertebrates. Around the other pinnacles Porcelain crabs and Sea anemones abound. Away from the structures are a variety of small familiar reef sharks.

South Twin Island: At the northern end of the bay on the eastern coast, at about 16m, the sea floor lies covered with scattered boulders where Elk and Staghorn corals grow. Queen triggerfish and juvenile Moorish idols lord it over the reef. Large schools of mackerel swim by along with jacks, tunas and trevally. A similar seascape lies at the southern point of the bay, which is especially rich with radiant crinoids

North Twin Island: The attraction here is a wide plateau at 20m. This submerged rocky shelve is crowned by many hard and soft corals, such as gorgonian seafans. Small Black and White-tip reef sharks often pass by in the deeper waters and curious barracudas are known to check out divers; on occasion, escorting them around the site!

A crabby orangutan

Bishops Fancy: A myriad of marine creatures abound at this site and should not be missed. A narrow underwater canyon twists and turns through the island. The centre is marked by an archway decorated with orange sponges, here is a good place to pause to watch Grey-reef sharks and Marbled rays swimming nose to tail. The end of the canyon teems with tiny invertebrates and curious marine life, perfect for macro photography.

Black Rock: Sharks of varied size and species patrols this domain making it one of the most thrilling sites in the area. White-tip reef sharks swim with larger sharks such as silver, bull and grey reef sharks. Hammerheads are seen occasionally. The southern point of the site features an enormous sloping granite rock heavily punctuated with soft coral.

High Rock. Although the visibility around this tree-topped rock is generally poor, the presence and diversity of the marine life is completely the opposite and certainly worthy of as mention. The average depth here is around the 12m mark, with an undulating bottom in 28m. The terrain is broken up into walls and shelves, which act as homes to numerous tiny residents including allied cowries and a host of shrimps. Stepping up a size are flatheads, seahorses, Harlequin ghost pipefish and anglerfish.

There are also a number of other sites that are featured destinations, the majority of which encompass the southern apex of the archipelago with certain companies diving certain sites. Good news for those not wanting to share the underwater realm with countless others. One company, however Scubaquest operating out of Phuket are currently pushing the boundaries even further and are the only ones to concentrate in the northern waters; which obviously means they have a few unique destinations up their sleeves. For instance they have just discovered a fantastic submerged pinnacle which due to the high representation of seafans and diversity of marine life they have named Orange Rock; as to its location, well they simply won't tell us so I guess we'll have to leave the dive site listings as they are…..for now anyway!

Looking Ahead

At the time of writing, the Mergui Archipelago remains an area of mystery.
Hundreds of islands wait to be explored along with countless dive sites! Although the area is presently served by foreign sailing yachts and diving companies the majority of which are based in neighbouring Thailand, it may not be long.